Finishing the PCT ELSEWHERE

We all start out our thru hiking journey with an idea of what it will be. Thru hiking the Pacific Crest Trail is an enormous undertaking and many hours have to be spent evaluating gear, conditions and logistics prior to heading out. This is a necessity, however it does come with its pitfalls.

Southern Monument in Campo: Jet-lagged after an international flight. But so ready to hike.

Because inevitably, we all have this journey in our mind long before starting it. We imagine ourselves touching the Mexican border, watching the sunsets in the desert, climbing rocky Sierra mountain passes, cruising through North Cal and Oregon before the glorious final stretch of Washington rewards us with – the Northern Monument. Canada. The ultimate culmination and well earned reward of our epic and romantic journey north.

The trail however doesn’t just provide. It also has a way of throwing us curve balls. And especially the Pacific Crest Trail is notorious in doing so as I had to find out during my 2022 thru hike. Of course I was aware of forest fires and the possibility of a high snow year. Luckily, the later didn’t end up happening and I had gotten lucky in the permit lottery with a mid April start date which should hopefully give me enough time to avoid the fires. So starting out I was naively optimistic about the journey being what I had pictured in my mind. And this even felt deserved after being a 2020 NoShow.

And things went according to plans and expectations for a long time. Of course it was hard and there was always something to deal with and overcome. I definitely didn’t see myself being featured on IG’s FeetOfThePCT for having horrific blisters or baking under an umbrella inside my bivy for three days in Kennedy Meadows while battling sickness. But such is thru hiking. It is part of the challenge we seek and it lies to a degree within our control. The trail was there and I knew I could eventually hop back on. It was however there until it wasn’t anymore. Hiking into Etna, CA I not only had the first bits of rain and thunderstorms but later from a ridge spotted a small forest fire ignited by these thunderstorms. It didn’t stay small for long – quite the opposite and it became to be known as the McKinney fire. I remember hearing this name for the first time and asking a local “Why did they name this one?”. Hiking for three and a half months without any fires had given me a false sense of security they would not be an issue. At that point I was just a few days away from crossing out of California into Oregon. After 1,600 miles this border is an important milestone to any thru hiker. And like most I had greatly anticipated crossing it for a while as I was ready to be done with California. Of course being safe from the fire was a blessing and I had friends who got way too close. That being said, my previous idea of my PCT journey clashed with reality pretty hard and this was a mental challenge.

Meeting so many of my friends and the entire trail bubble in Etna softened the blow, as did partying at the rodeo which just so happened to be in town that Saturday. The next morning I awoke with a hangover to news of several new forest fires having started all over Oregon due to nightly thunderstorms. Thanks to some brain storming with experienced thru hikers I decided to not deal with the pain and logistics of it but to pivot to Timberline Lodge and hike Washington first, continuing Nobo. This worked out great. The weather up north was pleasant but humid which gave me flashbacks to my AT thru hike. The beautiful mountains of Washington were a welcome change after North Cal. And we got there right in time for Huckleberry season! Making the miles got a bit harder because of their sweet temptation. Ultimately many hikers who had tried to continue north in Oregon gave up on that idea and joined us in Washington. This was a bit of a challenge as the surprisingly few camp spots started filling up and services were challenged. But things largely went according to plan. That was until news of forest fires at the border reached me. They trickled in as rumors followed by assertions that it was not a problem and under control. It was worrisome however. After Rainy Pass it became apparent that it could be a problem. Things got intense. The actual border crossing into Canada was still closed due to the Pandemic which meant crossing paths with many hikers heading south on their return from the border. They were rightfully ecstatic about their accomplishment. “You’re almost there, Spinewalker” “Congratulations!”

Running to get…there

I must have heard it dozens of times. Problem was, I was now hiking, no, rushing northbound towards a gigantic cloud of smoke. The closer I got, the less I was just worried about reaching Canada and the more I started to worry about my safety. There were multiple fires, on both sides of the PCT. One of them was getting close to a ridge that separated it from the valley where the PCT is routed through. The smell of smoke permeated the air. It added to my exhaustion from rushing the miles to make it. But I kept pushing hard. Mile after mile. Ascent after descent after ascent.

Until...I crossed path with a thru hiker heading south who was crying. These weren’t happy tears. She told me people were being turned around now by the Rangers. The fire had jumped the ridge and the trail to the Monument was closed. Canada, the end point of this journey was out of reach. After being denied the Cali/OR border, the news hit me like a brick wall. It was devastating being stopped a mere 17 miles from the Monument. Which I had pictured for years as the glorious finale of my PCT journey. The hike back south to Harts pass was rough. I cursed myself for any “unnecessary” Zero I had taken. Seeing the impact the closure had on my friends was so painful, too. I have never come across a sadder crowd of people than the 40 or so hikers that got stranded at Harts pass. Some returning south after being turned around, some on their way north still when getting word of the closure. Now sitting heartbroken in a dusty parking lot, awashed much like sailors after their ship had been crushed like the dreams of us hikers. Especially that first hiker heading south who had to break the news (and hearts) of their follow hikers deserves nothing but admiration for carrying that burden. She must have told dozens…

Trail Closure sign at Holman Pass. 17 miles before Canada.

This was the ultimate clash of my idea of what hiking the PCT was going to be with the reality of it. It was extremely challenging to adjust to it. But ultimately it did not break me or had me stop my thru hike. See, my goal was “thru hiking the PCT”. This means hiking all trail that is open and this was still possible even though the situation obviously sucked. It was much harder on people who had set a goal of “hiking from Mexico to Canada”, “making it to the Monument” or “continuous footsteps north bound”. There isn’t any wrong way to hike the PCT (as long as one is honest about what you are doing). Given the experience I made in 2022 I would however advice anyone setting out to strongly consider what their goals are before starting. Because the difference between them might be the difference between something achievable or not achievable. Or it might make it much harder. I have trail family who walked forest service roads for days to continue their steps. Some hopped on a boat to still achieve their goal or went to another point at the border. Others straight quit at Harts Pass. For some people it is easier to let go of their initial goal than for others but there is nothing worse than looking back on your hike unsatisfied due to the decisions you made under pressure. Know yourself and set yourself up for a win!

Running out of trail miles at Timberline Lodge with Mt. Hood in the background.

As for me and my hike, I learned in Seattle that the trail north of Etna had just reopened. In an act of angry defiance with the trail and my bad luck I went all the way back there and hiked north. I finally crossed the California/Oregon border! Then continued through Oregon. It was getting late in the season and so the infamous mosquitoes there had already gone back to hell. My 24hr challenge was cut short by two mountain lions and the prospect of another 10 hours of paranoid solo night hiking. Ultimately I made it back to Timberline Lodge where I finished my thru hike of the Pacific Crest Trail. It felt incredibly, great and overwhelming! And I was at peace with how things went. There was tears, happy ones this time. The buffet at the lodge held up to its reputation and skipping it the first time was the right decision because now I had truly earned it. I then got a ride from a hiking friend and trail angel, Pat, back to the Portland area. My trail sister had gotten word that Manning Park in Canada had just reopened. Was there a way? Our US visa were running out and the logistics were not going to be easy, probably impossible even. As we discussed our options, Pat generously offered to give us a ride there! And so we ended up hiking south from the Canada side of the border. We spend a final night camping in considerable forest fire smoke. The next morning we got up early and hiked to the Northern Monument. Arriving and touching it felt almost as great and special to me as finishing at Timberline Lodge in Oregon.

And there it is. The money shot. Northern Monument at the US-Canadian border with trail sister Blue Bird.
I’m not crying - you’re crying!

Needless to say, all of this was an emotional roller coaster. And you do face a ride on it as well if you hike the PCT. While your journey will be different, I hope you take away from my story that flexibility and perseverance are key to your goals. Had I continued north into Oregon after Etna I would have faced discouraging logistics and most likely horrible smoke. Had I given up after being denied the Monument I would have missed out on many great smiles and miles and failed at finishing the PCT. I am entirely grateful for how things worked out. The support I had gotten and the camaraderie of my trail sister Blue Bird who was with me through the whole ordeal were paramount as well. Ultimately, setting myself an achievable goal, keep going at it and grind even at the worst of times was rewarded. And then some. There's no guarantees of that happening but staying true to one's goal is a big one when looking back. And I will always reflect fondly on Timberline Lodge as my PCT finish and the Northern Monument as an incredible bonus. And Hart’s pass as…well…